05.27.18

What was Beautiful:

The tropical lushness, turquoise seas, and volcanic activity of Hawaii.

My new Triumph T-120 motorcycle.

My garden bursting with food and flowers.

What I’ve been up to: 

Wrapped up my project at work and headed to Oregon for Flock to the Rock, but then lost my wallet so turned around and headed home. The next week I went to Hawaii for my yoga retreat, except that the retreat part of it was cancelled so I rented a motorcycle and rode around, did yoga at the beach and went diving. It was alright but I need community and connection more than I need a tropical location and so it proved to be an exercise in discipline and letting go more than a holiday. Next was the purchase of a new motorcycle that I had been considering for the past year and the requisite, immediate road trip to break it in. Looking forward to summer.

What made me Laugh: 

Not much lately, honestly. I have small moments of joy but they are easily overshadowed by the larger anxieties. Still, I delight in the dogs playing in the yard, having dinner with friends and making light of occasional absurdities.

What I’m reading and listening to:

On TRAVEL –

Why we travel.

 

On RELATIONSHIPS –

Psychological Tips to Make Your Marriage Happier

 

On WORK –

Why it’s ok to be bored at work. Boredom is trying to tell you something.

How to keep your bad mood from affecting your work.

How to ramp up quickly

How to handle negative situations at work

A hilarious bonus episode of Revisionist History where Malcolm Gladwell debates Adam Grant loosely about organizational psychology

Walt Disney on how to truly love what you do

 

On MOTORCYCLES –

The Happiness of the Motorcycle

 

On BEING BETTER –

The cure for an anxious, sucky life

A depressive’s guide to microdosing

Why Are we Getting More Depressed?

Being Bored is Good

Redefining Work, Love and Play – find people who want to color outside the lines

Happiness is tangible – “The goal with simple joys is not to crowd or rush them, not to chase or exhaust ourselves or make ourselves sick in overindulgence, but to enjoy them gently — to drink them in fully, but then just as gently put them away.”

5 Ways to Have a Good Life – “You have to commit yourself entirely. You can’t love people half way. You can’t leave important business unfinished. You can’t deliberately half-ass your job or your relationship or any other area of your life because you feel more comfortable when you have one foot out the door. You have to decide what you’re in for and then go all the way with it. You have to realize the freedom and possibility that exists within commitment…Be braver than you feel. Achievement doesn’t come with ease or comfort.”

Being Sober for 21 Days Has Improved My Life

How Social Media Impacts Our Reality

On Midlife – “Midlife is not about the fear of death. Midlife is death. Tearing down the walls that we spent our entire life building is death. Like it or not, at some point during midlife, you’re going down, and after that, there are only two choices: staying down or enduring rebirth.”

Fuck where you see yourself in 3 yearsapropos, as I write my 3-year letter

The new prime suspect for Depression – Ketamine could be our best lead in the hunt for depression.

The power of emotional decision making

It’ll work out for you

 

On FEMINISM –

There are no Safe Spaces for Women

 

On AMERICA –

Why America is the World’s Most Uniquely Cruelest Society – “America is the most cruel nation among its peers — even among most poor countries todayIt is something like a new Rome. It has little, if any, functioning healthcare, education, transport, media, no safety nets, no stability, security. The middle class is collapsing, and life expectancy is falling.Young people die for a lack of insulin they cannot crowdfund. Elderly middle-class people live and die in their cars. Kids massacre each other in schools — when they’re not self-medicating the pain of it all away. The combination of these pathologies happens nowhere else — not a single place — in the world. Not even Pakistan, Costa Rica, or Rwanda. Hence, the world is aghast daily at the depths of American cruelty — yet somehow, they seem bottomless.”

The birth of a new American Aristocracy  – “Family, friends, social networks, personal health, culture, education, and even location are all ways of being rich, too. These nonfinancial forms of wealth, as it turns out, aren’t simply perks of membership in our aristocracy. They define us.”

 

On Writing –

How to be successful

05.08.18

What was Beautiful:

Grey foggy morning light while I walk the dogs (super early these days because of work busyness, flamenco music on repeat while I practice, McMenamin’s Kalama lodge.

What I’ve been up to: 

Finishing up my project at work, finishing levelling the yard, riding to Oregon for International Female Ride Day with my Raven wind sisters (and stopping for McMenamin’s passport stamps at the new Kalama lodge on the way), and now I’m off to Hawaii although it looks like the yoga retreat portion/purpose of the trip may be cancelled due to volcanic activity.

What made me Laugh: 

“Peculiar travel plans are dancing lessons from God,” says Vonnegut and don’t I know it after getting in late to Kalama last weekend (not my final destination) and deciding to stay, getting up early and riding to Astoria only to realize I’d lost my wallet and ride home again after tracing my steps. Now lava is literally bubbling up under my Hawaiian yoga retreat so we’ll see what happens there.

What I’m reading:

How to Make Something People Love

How to Appear Smart in Meetings  😉

Memories of my Analog Childhood

Why it’s ok to be bored at work. Boredom is trying to tell you something.

How to keep your bad mood from affecting your work.

Why can’t we read anymore?

What it means when you hold your phone without using it (and who’s doing it)

100,000 Happy Moments

How to Love without Attachment

Create my Life vs. Life Happens to Me – a “life happens to me” mindset. We all know it’s a powerless state. Throws you into victim mode, turning your life into a choiceless maze. It stunts growth and potential and instead of living, you merely exist. You become a walking shell and define life as something that’s tolerated instead of truly lived.

Here’s what happens. Simply put, we discover pain. We fall off our bikes. We learn that our parents are flawed. Our friends hurt us, on purpose. We discover unhealthy love that confuses and crush us. Unexpected tragedies occur constantly. We get evicted. We lose jobs. Get into accidents. Break bones. People disappoint us. Hate us. Lie to us. We disappoint ourselves. We go through breakups. Our kids leave the house and we have to finally look at our marriage and ourselves. People we love get sick. All of this. Over and over again. And we fight. We do our best to stay positive and in the game of life. But after years and years and years of “suffering”, life takes its toll. We start to believe we have no power. Life happens to us. And we decide to stay down.
Instead of wanting more from life, we just want to survive. We learn to bare it. Life is no longer about creating. It’s about surviving. We tolerate instead of live. We get into lukewarm relationships. We numb ourselves with junk food and television. We hide. We become afraid. We don’t trust life anymore. Our walls come up. We create our own prison.”
Passio— suffering. A passion is simply what you are willing to suffer for. It might be family. Art. Literature. Discovery. It doesn’t matter, it matters why — as all things that give us meaning do. If we suffer for it — not by force, but freely, by choice, with a sense of abandon, even celebration, it will mean something to us. Not because it “makes us stronger”, but because it teaches us what human fragility is.”

04.06.18

What was Beautiful:

Tulips coming up in my garden, raindrops on budding trees.

What I’ve been up to: 

Making windchimes and light-catchers for the garden, cultivating moss, making kombucha and today heading out to Palm Springs to get some sunshine and joy.

What made me Laugh: 

Dogs mostly.

What I’m reading:

Earliest known footprints in North America found on an island in BC

Plant-based diets are the best

What our emotions mean

Digital Age Anxiety

Using Light to Boost Creativity

The Danger in Fake Spirituality and Bypassing 

Lots of Tara Mohr and Anna Holden; the Magical Unicorn Handbook (for sensitive people), 5 Ways Sensitivity Makes Us Stronger and So You’re Highly Sensitive, What does that Mean?

This video on how l language shapes our actions. “In English, we have different tenses to talk about the past, present, and future. You say, I ate yesterday, I eat today, or I will eat tomorrow. In a language like Chinese, you use the same tense when talking about the past, present, or future, so the same sentence in Chinese translates to I eat yesterday, I eat today, or I eat tomorrow. Chen found that countries with “futureless” languages saved 25% more than countries with “futured” languages. You can watch the video to see all the stats that back it up, but let’s think about what this means and why this can be a game changer.”

Cost of living surging in US cities, not surprisingly including Seattle.

On Nat Geo’s apology of how it has portrayed race and a discussion about how we should do it.

How to Identify a Toxic Job and How to Positively Reshape Your Core Belief System

You Deserve Someone Who’s Sure About You and the Ways You Know It Isn’t Love.

Mastering Intuitive Thinking

Most Psychology Research is BS

 

03.26.19

What was Beautiful:

I’ve been getting up early and really appreciating the birdsong in the morning, as well as the Cascade and Olympic mountains crisply outlined in the wintry sunshine.

What I’ve been up to: 

Learning Sevillanas in flamenco for the Feria

Spreading 3 truckloads of dirt around the yard in an attempt to make it level (and ready for summer).

….and a lot of stretching as a result of both of those.

What made me Laugh: 

Dogs jumping around the dirt pile in the backyard and underneath my flamenco skirts.

What I’m reading:

Science Proves that Having a Sister Makes You a Better Person

Sit and be still for a second

“What if instead, we learned to be happy with ourselves? What would happen?… Think of how this might simplify your life. Think of how many self-improvement books you read, or listen to in the car. Think of how many products you buy to make yourself better. Think of how many things you read online, in the hopes of being better. Think of how many things you do because you feel inadequate. Think of how much time this would free up, how much mental energy.”

Stop being a self-help junkie

The difference between laziness and fear

The only 3 things I need in a partner and the 1 question to ask yourself

Why You Should Never Retire

03.20.18

What was Beautiful:

Birdsong in the morning, all the birds hopping around my garden. Cherry blossoms.

What made me Laugh: 

Dogs trying to play on me while I’m exercising.

What I’ve been up to: 

Spring cleaning, putting the garden in.

What I’m reading:

Leaving the B+ Life and Choosing the Right Challenges

The Spirit of Words – on drinking and writing. And then on recovery and writing.

About Seattle’s Gypsy schools; Tacoma, Bagley, Pierce County

The Most Important Thing in a Relationship

Why Play is so Important  and how your childhood hobby can make you more productive AND a London office with a giant ball pit!

Also why wage transparency is so important.

The United States of Workaholics.

and the Psychology of Side Projects – “From a psychological perspective, it would be better if people engaged in activities in which they sought challenges and tried to match them with their skills. Evidently, his also applies to work: Optimal experiences correlate positively with mental health. However, in our society leisure is used as an “escape” from work. “Escapism” in this respect means that people do not seek meaningful leisure activities for their own growth and development, but instead resort to passive activities to escape from everyday strains and problems. Such behavior is frequently associated with a passive lifestyle and boredom, which in turn might feed into apathy and depression.”

How to Fail when You’re Used to Winning and How to give feedback to your boss.  but not if they seem brash and easily offended [at times].

You’re OK. And you’re not doing it wrong.

I envy you, a story of Saudi princesses

And finally, How Darwin Became the Father of Evolution.

03.16.18

What was Beautiful:

   

An amazing flamenco benefit show, full of power and love but also preceded by a gorgeous purple twilight with swirling starlings…a magical evening all around.

Plus several beautiful winter mornings, walking the dogs and taking in the sunlight against the mountains.

What made me Laugh: 

Dog doofuses, always.

What I’ve been up to: 

Dog training, spring dinner for the women at Jubilee Women’s Center, trying to be more of a contribution than a cog.

What I’m reading:

Reality For Hopeless Romantics

The Women who Saved Me, a beautiful essay / love letter.

No Place for Pity, No Room for Fear, a brilliant essay on the importance of Artists in troubling times, and  Brilliant Retellings of Classic Myths by Female Writers  is a genre I’ve always liked, combining a couple of my favourite things. And then there are Female Motorcyclists – another one.

Not Everyone Deserves Your Love. A good reminder. Also, An Apology Doesn’t Mean You’re Forgiven.

And even more boundary setting – Leave me alone, but don’t leave me.

How to Win People and How to Live Your Dreams (most people don’t, probably because You Don’t Know What You Want,  but “both success and mediocrity take the same amount of energy and time”).

(How to) Spend More Time in a Good State of Mind and How to Get Unstuck and Live the Life You Love.

You’re Angrier than You Think

Summertime Rolls

Chief

It has been a languid, lazy spring. The weather has been nice so I’ve been hanging at the dog park, reading some dense books* that I have always meant to get through and riding my bike a lot. But we have found a home in Seattle for July 1st – two weeks from now – and suddenly things are happening fast. Luckily we have handlers who are dealing with almost every detail for us so instead of freaking out, I am calmly just taking pictures down off the walls and unplugging appliances we’re not using. The movers are coming today to do an inventory and then they will come and pack everything up in 2 weeks and then we will have a few days of camping out with our animals and without our stuff and then we will be living in AMERICA!

There are many other details that need to happen in between all of that and of course a looooooong list of stuff to do after we have arrived but that doesn’t matter. At the point when we are sitting in our home in Seattle, we will have literally crossed the line and all of the waiting and dragging this process out will be at least mostly over – sort of. The career piece, which I will write about later, is still going to be dragged out until the end of summer because once I get my visa I STILL will not be able to work for 3 months – a detail that was not mentioned when we started this process. I’m not sure what kind of bureaucratic red tape that is about but it seems that there are still many more days ahead of riding my bike and reading and hanging out at the dog park. Or alternately, I may run away to Japan for a couple of weeks. We’ll see.

*Moby Dick really isn’t worth the trouble. 

Chief

In the meantime, there are people to see in Vancouver, things to do and especially places to eat. I decided this week that I am not going to do the Ride to Conquer Cancer for a handful of reasons, the primary being that it is just too busy right now but also it is going to rain and I don’t want to go out and buy a bunch more gear just so I can ride by myself for 2 days. It would have been different if I had had more of a team or if I had trained harder but I’m not going to get anything out of it other than stress at this point.

Instead, I have finally climbed the Stawamus Chief, something that has been on my “must do” list every summer since I moved back to Vancouver in 1999. How embarrassing, but also what a great hike. I’m sorry I waited so long to do it.

Heirloom

In a similar vein, I have also been eating at a ton of “new” restaurants this past month in a desperate attempt to get through them before we move. Almost none of these are actually new restaurants, but rather places that I’ve been meaning to check out over the years. A couple of these I have been roller coasters of emotions – delight and astonishment (something that hasn’t happened in while with me and food) at how good they are and then utter despair that I didn’t go earlier. For example, Via Tevere, Hog Shack Cook House, Laksa King and Octopus’ Garden. But others have been just ok and every time that happens, I just want to get up in the middle of the meal and go for laksa.

As of today’s count, I have 33 places left and 19 days to do it in so I’d better get going. Gulp!

Kilby

Between my food blog and my constant quest to check out new and interesting things, I think I am a pretty good ambassador for Vancouver. I go to art galleries fairly regularly and am at the Museum of Anthropology and the Vancouver Aquarium pretty frequently but as part of my volunteer work at the Museum of Vancouver, I got to take part in the Vancouver Tourism Challenge last month.

Aquarium

I went so many places! Of course I I went back to all of my favourites but Matt and Riley and I also took a trip up to Hell’s Gate Air Tram (so underwhelming) and I went to all of the gardens (Van Dusan and Nitobe are gorgeous) and up to the Squamish Lil’Wat Cultural Centre.  I made a point of going to everything I hadn’t already been to (except for the BC Sports Hall of Fame which I just cannot get excited about) and I also tried to ride my bike to as many places as possible, so that kept me busy.

Aquarium

It’s a great program and I learned a lot. As well, it has primed me for checking out all of the Seattle galleries, museums and such. I already have been to many of them and actually have already applied to volunteer at SAM but I’m looking forward to exploring.  Starting with –  Ride the Ducks!

Victoria

Somehow we managed to sneak in a trip to Victoria too.

Victoria

Although I’ve been on the island a lot in the last couple of years, I haven’t been able to make it into town. I have found memories of Victoria from going to university there and I really wanted to go and check some things out, see some people and do some diving on the Breakwater. Rushed and moved around as it was (originally we had planned to go on Easter) we didn’t end up doing much other than eating and drinking and walking around but that suited us just fine.

Riley

Riley had a great time too. 🙂

Riley

What I’m reading and listening to:

April does what it wants

April 5

Around this time of year people around here say April showers bring May flowers. In Germany they say April does what it wants.  But in my house there is scarcely time to notice the weather because April is busy. It’s my sister’s birthday and then my birthday and then my dad’s birthday and then my grandmothers – and somewhere in there is usually Easter – and then when we’re through all that it’s our wedding anniversary. This year we upped the busyness by throwing in a trip to Salmon Arm to see Matt’s parents too. Today I had a nap.

English Bay

In keeping with the showers part of the proverb, it has been pretty spectacularly grey and wet in Vancouver. I took a break from riding my bike while it was wet because while there are many activities that I don’t mind doing in the rain, riding my bike is not one of them. Yuckity yuck. Except then I remembered that if it rains on the ride to Seattle, I will be riding in the rain for the first time and that sorted me out pretty fast. So I went for a long-ass ride in the rain and got soaking wet and cranky but it was still so much better than it was at the beginning because earlier in the month I got some new SPD pedals and toe clips, padded cycling shorts and a jersey that makes me look so fast – at least when I’m stopped at Starbucks. I also got my bike fitted by the fine experts at MEC and it turns out that it is way too small for me. So that would explain the pain in my sacrum and the way my hip clicks on long rides. I’m glad to have it sorted now.

Cherry blossoms

I’m also glad to have had some days of non-rain too. In between all the grey, it is suddenly summer. The flowers are out (tulips and cherry blossoms everywhere!) and all the patios are open and then that too comes to pass and we go back to the grey. Ah, springtime in Vancouver. April always does what it wants.

April 3

I’m still doing trash clean-up dives pretty regularly with my group (Divers for Cleaner Lakes and Oceans) and along with about 3000 lbs of garbage to date, we’re also raising awareness. Earlier this year the Coquitlam paper came to check us out and this month we were interviewed by a news crew and then for GreenPeace’s Mobilisation Lab blog. That feels pretty good, although it doesn’t quite compare to diving in Socorro.

Tulips

Another bit of awesomeness that happened in April is that I had a career coaching session with Penelope Trunk. I’ve been following her blog for ages and then took a couple of her classes including “How to Get Your Dream Job”, but my problem is not getting the job. I am pretty confident that I can sort out the resume / networking / interviewing pieces even in a new country and industry, as long as I know what direction I’m going in. It’s a blessing and a curse, being interested in everything and capable enough to consider it for a career so I got stuck several times with my last coach. With Penelope we  distilled down the things that were important to me and determined that corporate education / HR development training is a good direction. It is big and challenging enough to last me until retirement, provides the possibility of working for myself again (after I learn the ins and outs), and scratches my two itches of being creative and wanting to help people. So I’m excited about that. I have been doing lots of research on Seattle and training and education and re-writing my resume on a near weekly basis.

Spring

It’s pretty perfect timing because now that we’ve done all the travelling we had planned for this year, it’s time for the next adventure – our move to Seattle, slated July 1st. We’ve dusted off our visa application from last year and re-engaged the immigration people so now I’m looking for a place to live and a place to work and people to connect with and diving / hiking / climbing / motorcycling groups to join…and of course planning our going away party. Stay tuned.

Flowers

What I’m reading and listening to:

Spain (revisited)

Walterses

Travelling through Europe again, taking photos of doors and writing in cafes has made me think a lot of our trip through Spain last year (we went in May 2012). We had such a good time, hanging out in Barcelona for a week before heading up to Girona and eating the dinner of our lives at El Celler de Can Roca and then motorcycling around the country through France to Andorra, then Madrid, Cordoba, Seville, Jerez, Gibraltar, Ronda, Granada, Costa del Sol, Valencia and back to Barcelona again. That was before I had a place to keep travel notes and the like, so they’ve been floundering around  in my phone and for lack of a better idea I’m just going to post them here, largely unedited. As always, the link to the flickr photo set is at the end of the post.

Gaudi

12-05-03 – 12-05-09 (Barcelona)

Coming from the airport we passed a hillside graveyard and fields and the general unused land around airports, but then the landscape closed in tighter and tighter as we got into Barcelona and then into Barri Gòtic – the Gothic quarter or Old town where what used to be paths hundreds of years ago has now been cemented into streets by years and stone. The taxi driver tried to tell us where our hotel was (we were not in front of it) but not understanding his Catalan, he shrugged and drove us to it down an impossibly small street.

Barri Gothic

The lock was broken so we called the landlord and waited a while but then the locksmiths broke the spare lock that they brought with them so finally we left them to it and went out to dinner. We were tired so we choose poorly and ended up at something too touristy close to La Rambla (the main street, a wide promenade full of shops and tourists) but it gave us an idea of what to expect.

Sagrada Familia

I loved wandering the labyrinthian neighbourhood, navigating to our street using graffiti on closed security doors and public art in seemingly out of the way squares, and passing jamón shops with legs of ham hanging in windows every 50 metres. On the first day we walked to see Gaudi’s masterpiece, the Sagrada Familia (above) and on the way passed three of his other works – Casa MilaCasa Amatller, and Casa Batlló. On they way back we passed a restaurant I wanted to check out – Tapas 24 – and we ate pa amb tomate and jamón, croquettes and the best dessert I’ve had in  a long time – rolls of chocolate  ganache topped with sea salt and olive oil. 

We found a cava bar we liked in El Born (the trendy restaurant district near us) called Xampanyet and ended up going there 2 more times, we visited the Boqueria market twice and ate at the Bar Pinotxo. I had made both lunch and dinner reservations at Tickets, planning to cancel one of them but we ate there twice too and tried everything on the menu.

And so our first week in Spain passed this way, feeling easy and comfortable, being amazed at how small and compact and beautiful it was but happy to already have favourites and a familiar routine.

Motorcycles

12-05-10 (Barcelona / Girona)

When I first told Matt I wanted to eat at El Celler de Can Roca I explained that it was in Girona, a couple of hours north of Barcelona and he said no problem, he would sort out how to get us there. I assumed there would be a bus or maybe a train but a couple of weeks later he had rented us some motorcycles – a BMW R1200GS for him and a BMW F800ST for me – and planned a little romp around the countryside. Because he likes driving and I like seeing things that turned into the epic adventure that follows but our first leg was pretty short – we picked up the bikes and drove to Girona, checked into our hotel and ordered some surprise dishes off the entirely Catalan menu, and then I went to bed because we had spent a little too long at the mezcal bar the night before and I wanted to be in good shape for dinner.

El Cellar de Can Roca

Then we ate at El Celler de Can Roca. It was the best experience I have ever had in a restaurant and that covers food and service. Afterwards we met the chef and he thanked me for my sensitivity – what I had called “our gushing” about how good everything was earlier in the evening.

Cadaques

12-05-11 (Girona/ Cadaques /France / Andorra)

The next day was a long one. We wanted to ride through the Pyrenees and we had seen on Google Maps that the road through Andorra was a good one. But to get there we first needed to go north along the coast and then through France. So we passed through Figueres (where the Dali museum is meant to be) but didn’t see much of interest there and then I was anxious to be off again because my clutch grip was so stiff and my hand just gave out after too long in stop-and-go traffic.

A small town, Orriol maybe? smelled fantastically like cheese and made me grin and later a low-flying plane crossed over the road above us to land in a field and made me laugh out loud. It’s a bit lonely riding a motorcycle because even when you’re riding with someone you can’t be sure they’re sharing the same experiences and it’s rare that I get to take a photo but on the other hand, it makes you appreciate the moments a bit more and makes you try to remember them for later. There’s a bit of resonance there with my hesitation to get into underwater photography, I think.

Roses, the town where El Bulli used to be, was even more strange than Girona. It was tiny and felt somewhat like Osoyoos, with hills and windy roads and dry scrub and heat..not to mention the run-down go-carting place and crazy mini golf parks. I guess a seaside town is a seaside town is a seaside town.

But that road! We laughed all the way to Cadaques, twisting in and our of beautiful corners, bright yellow broom all over the place (with that particular cellulose smell), catching our first glimpses of the Mediterranean and were still smiling over beers and bacon-cheese sandwiches oceanside when we stopped for lunch. Cadaques is all square white buildings and square blue windows reflecting light off the ocean and Gertrude Stein was right – this is a perfectly cubist village. Cubism was created by Cadaques.

Cadaques

And then we got to ride that road again, inland! Aside from a small stretch of boring highway slab in France, the twisties continued all the way to Andorra. We passed a whole bunch of beach towns with intense azure water, a Castle with a moat, the vineyards of the Languedoc-Rousillon wine region, and then several small medieval towns with towers and walls and meadows and orchards and some beautiful horses grazing as we rode through a river valley. It’s so neat to think that these would have been about a day’s journey between each town and we just whipped by them one after another.

Andorra

Unfortunately I didn’t realize that the Go Pro camera battery was dead so even when we drove practically through a castle I didn’t pull over to take any photos. We’ll just have to come through here again some day. Approaching Andorra looks so much live Bavaria or BC even (or like a mountainous region, I suppose) but with stone huts and more horses and then suddenly it was all snow and duty free shops. It felt like a mall. The air temperature didn’t drop until we were practically on top of the ski resort, though, but it was pretty glorious. And the road up and down the summit! The switchbacks were so severe that Matt and I were almost facing each other a couple of times. So awe-inspiring, although Andorrans drive like assholes and there were several tracks off into the air so I went slow.

Hard to believe we went from sea level to glacier in the same day, through 3 countries. By far the best day riding of my life.

And then I was ready to be off the bike; I was tired and thirsty and headache-y and my shoulders were quite sore from the ergos on the bike and Matt’s back had been bothering him for hours, but we were almost in Andorra la Vella and then there was another small town, and another, and another and then we were there but there was a river and such a long, drawn out town you never did see but finally we arrived and after 14 hours of riding got ourselves stranded up a steep, narrow dead end. The road was just closed off at the top of a hill so steep that Matt had to back into a corner to turn around and I had to ride up on to and off of the sidewalk, through some bollards and around a car while Matt held my bike and I freaked out because I couldn’t touch the ground. It sucked very badly but eventually we got to our hotel and almost got into a fight with a horrible Italian man who told Matt, “traffic is not bad, you are stupid!!” after honking at us then driving around us and over the median and reversing through the intersection, and the next day Matt came off his bike after breaking too hard from not yielding at a courtesy corner. We hated Andorra as soon as we arrived.

Madrid

12-05-12 (Andorra / Madrid)

Nothing much to report on the journey down the super slab highway from Andorra to Madrid. It was even more boring than we thought it would be, although in some parts there is interesting scenery – including some that looks for all the world like Utah except for the fields of windmills and periodically placed huge toro silhouettes along the way. I guess they don’t call it the Sierra Nevada in both counties for nothing. Also we met a crazy truck driver near Zaragosa who we had quite a long conversation with while actually exchanging very little information. He was rad though and we watched some Moto GP videos of Rossi on his phone. As Matt says, motorcycle people are motorcycle people no matter where you are. I love how many people wave and smile at us here. Motorcycles just make people happy I think.

Arriving in Madrid was busy but sane. People know how to drive here and there is respect for motorcyclists which is awesome and the city just seems electric with energy. We were surprised that we felt good and had some energy after a shower, beer and food  so we decided to walk up to the Reina Sofia museum to see Picasso’s Guernica. This is a painting I have been wanting to see for a very long time and so I was so grateful. It’s one that demands a visit in person to understand the utter immensity of it. It’s enormous and the effect of all those layers and textures of wood just does not come through in photos. His ability to convey emotion like that through form is just such brilliance. I could have sat there for hours.

The museum has several other Dalis, Magrittes, Miros and other famous pieces and we saw quite a few but Matt was getting tired so we didn’t stay too long and then found a nice spot overlooking the city where we could drink our beers before dinner. The light was amazing and the thing that I already love about this city is that there are almost no tourists. It was so nice to just hang out in close proximity to some Spaniards and watch the footy game that was happening down  below. Later we tried to go out for dinner on the Calle de la Cava Baja – Madrid’s tapas row and we were astounded at how many people were out milling and eating, streaming out of streets like water. We thought there was an event on but it turned out to just be Saturday night.  This city is so ALIVE!! Every bar is packed to the gills and we could hear music and people out partying until almost morning. We were in bed early though – we did 700km AND a museum and that was enough. We’ll have to come back.

Madrid

12-05-13 (Madrid)

We toured the entire Prado today! We were not as impressed with Velasquez’s portraits as I had expected and I’m not a huge fan of Goya but it was good to see the original Las Meninas after seeing so many of Picasso’s studies in Barcelona. Also, I hadn’t realized that there were so many (or any, for that matter) of Hieronymus Bosch’s paintings in Madrid, so it was a real treat to see the Garden of Earthly Delights and 4 others up close. So much crazy detail in those.

We were cooked afterwards but decided it would be better to press on and eat instead of napping. So we had a couple of beers and then headed back to the bottom of the Calle de la Cava Baja where we had been the night before, ready to tuck in.

The first place we went was a chain called Toma Jamón that (obviously) had jamóns hanging all over the place and one ready to slice on a barrel in the doorway. Gin and tonics seem to be the drink of the moment in Madrid – every bar was promoting them, including our hotel – but I had vermuth again (Matt stuck with beer) and we ordered jamón, pulpo gallego (octopus), and gambas (prawns). I tried to order more but the proprietor waved me off with a laugh and then brought me to the counter to show me the prawns – there was a choice between ones the size of my hand or larger. He also brought out an order of tomato bread and small but meaty green olives so I worried that we were going to fill up on our first stop. Matt laughed at me for being up to my elbows in prawn but they were so delicious – meaty and flavourful and not like any prawn I’ve had in recent years. We were pretty full by the time we got to the octopus but we didn’t much care for it anyways. It was thinly sliced on top of thinly sliced potatoes and doused in smoky, meaty-tasting paprika. It was fine as a protein but not good enough to warrant eating my beloved octopuses.

Gulas

Bar #2 (TxoTolia Pinoteca Madrileño??) was packed but we squished in and Matt got a table while I ordered drinks and scoped out the tapas. I told Matt that there was one of the best looking ones I had seen so far (a fist-sized bomba with potatoes and mushrooms) and one of the grossest (a pile of tiny grey eels – “gulas” – on toast with a lone slice of red pepper for garnish). He told me to get one of each and I stared at him in disbelief for a moment before running to the counter and ordering before either of us changed our minds. Surprisingly, the eels were even better than the bomba that ended up coming warmed with mushroom gravy or the morcilla sausages wrapped in a fried egg on toast and even the Spaniards were shocked since most of them were eating tapas that looked like little cheeseburger sliders.

We were pretty drunk by this point but decided to try one more place. And unfortunately the one we tried one wasn’t very busy or very good but we had some anchovies (tasted as expected) and croquettes (tasted of oil) , some hazelnut ice cream (delicious) and some terrible, bitchy service before stumbling home.

Cordoba

12-05-14 (Madrid / Cordoba)

Even more boring than the last freeway jaunt except for some vineyards and olive trees. It’s pretty cool to smell olive oil in the air though.

So hot. I am melting in my leathers. Matt says him too but I look at his canvas jacket that unzips to practically nothing and think that he just has no idea.

We arrived in Cordoba and parked on the sidewalk, peeled the leathers off and left them in a damp pile on the sidewalk. The hotel was nice but we decided to go out and see the mosque-cathedral immediately instead of waiting until later so we changed and headed out but it was so hot. We were cranky and sweating before we had even made it all the way across the river.

The mosque (way more mosque than cathedral despite the altar in the middle and the various culty chapels around the perimeter) was stunningly beautiful with its rows of candy cane arches and forest of pillars and I was happy that so much of the original remained but I couldn’t help but wish that it had all been preserved. I guess that’s not the way of history though.

For some reason most of the dogs we saw in Cordoba are German Shepherds – all of them with their tongue almost touching the ground. It’s unconscionable. It’s way too hot in this town and the old quarter was full of tourists so we hid out in the hotel room and drained the mini bar until evening. We tried to go to the pool but it was closed so we took a lovely walk around the mosque and old city walls again.

Seville

12-05-15 (Cordoba / Seville / Jerez)

More freeway, we hate freeways. And more cows but now there are some garlic farms and many many more olive orchards. The air was full of the smell of them and Matt smelled sherry as well at one point. Sevilla was bigger than expected and apparently had hosted the Olympics at some point as we recognized the infrastructure pieces that seem to accompany them. It’s also much cooler than we expected (32 instead of 38, at least for now) and we’re so grateful but still astounded to see guys walking around in the sun in black suits, or a FUR shop! There are orange trees with fruit on the growing everywhere on the streets and beautiful purple flowering trees that I think must be Jacarandas. We didn’t have much time in Seville, unfortunately, but we headed to Zelai for lunch where we had jamón and manchego cheese (both delicious, but possibly a poor choice to fill up on), patates ali-oli with saffron, tuna tataki and croquettes. Simply prepared, for the most part, but it was some of the best food we’ve had in Spain. For dessert we had a PB & jam pudding with a chocolate top that I thought was pretty good. Driving out of Seville I was so distracted by the incredibly beautiful architecture and wished we were able to stay longer to explore. Gorgeous palace after bull ring after manor houses…even the tourist information booth was in a beautiful building. And then we were back on the freeway with nothing much to look at but at least we were glad of the breeze.

Andalusia

Passed several castles in the afternoon. We seem to be in the part of Spain (mountainous but near enough the coast) that has one on every hilltop. I tried to get Matt to stop several times but I couldn’t get his attention. He’s been trying to ride more and more like a Spaniard which is better for the flow of traffic but means we’re passing dramatically and I’m often left with very little space. Hopefully it will make me a better rider and not just bitter but the heat and angry pressure building meant that I was in a pretty terrible mood when we stopped in Arcos de la Frontera and Matt yelled at me for not knowing where we were. Obviously there is a need for yelling when we’re both wearing earphones but he’s the one with the GPS so the conversation was maybe besides the point. Turns out there’s nothing to see in Arcos so we pressed on, melting.

We had reservations at the Sherry Park hotel which cracked me up for its Britishness but it is apparently the best-rated hotel in Jerez. We must have looked sunburnt, sweaty and miserable (never how we must have smelled!) because the clerk, Kino (who turned out to be awesome) joked with us that riding a moto in this weather, with this gear, is more like riding a sauna with wheels. So true. I would have laughed but all I could managed was a weak smile.

In the room we cranked the AC and drank 2 beers and 2 waters each before hopping in a cool shower. When we felt human again we went down the tho pool and I ordered some fino sherry (Tio Mateo). The bartender free-poured it, filling up my glass and it cost only €1,50. l love this country! Our new friend Kino recommended a little walk into town so we could get some photos and sample some Jerez cuisine (and sherry of course). Lovely man. When I asked about sherry bodegas he asked how much of a rush we were in in the AM because it was day off and he would be happy to take us to some special ones, but we had a big day ahead of us so we sadly had to skip it.

Jerez

We hadn’t expected anything of Jerez, just a place to sleep and maybe some sherry but we ended up falling in love with it. It has such a character all its own and I can’t help but think that that’s what Barcelona was to be like before all the tourists arrived. The first place we stopped was called Tabanco Plateros and I ordered a palo cortado sherry (which Matt admitted to liking although he still ordered beer for himself) and some delicious fresh cheese – payoyo, I think it was called – with morcilla. The morcilla was hella oily but the flavour was excellent. Same with the plate of green olives that arrived with the sherry. The place was packed and full of excellent energy and an accordion player came by for a while. I could have stayed there for a week butI wanted to see some of the town before dark.

Sherry

From there we walked through the old town (drunk) and took some photos of the cathedral and the square and the crazy swallows flying and chirping all over the place – feeding, I guess – and the sherry bodegas that are right smack in the middle of the old town. The restaurant Kino had recommended was a gastrobar called Reina something or other and was so adorable. They brought a table outside onto the street patio for us because it was still too hot to eat inside and then a bottle of wine (but no ice and no opener!). Lorenzo our waiter was so clumsy he kept tripping over Matt and stepping on his feet, so we laughed a lot, even more after we got the wine opened.

Gibraltar

12-05-16 (Jerez / Gibraltar / Ronda / Granada)

So much wind today! We are tilting at windmills for real as we get buffeted around. And it’s mercifully cold – down as low as 19 degrees today which is a shock after seeing 37 inland. The Rock of Gibraltar was significantly more impressive than we expected; coming down the hill into town we could see it shrouded in mist and all the ships in the harbour, but the “town” is pretty much nonexistent.

Ronda

The ride from Marbella up to Ronda was SPECTACULAR; cold, warm, cold, warmer, hot, hotter / oceanside, foothills, pine tree scrub, shale, farmland, village / sea level, ~3500 ft, etc. grinning the whole time. And then we got to Ronda, a beautiful little village with the oldest and most beautiful bull ring in Spain and the Medieval bridge through the gorge. We also found a whole bunch of tour buses.

More crazy wind, then some crazy traffic and we were ready to be off the bikes but Granada is super gorgeous once you get up the hill into the old town. And then we saw why so many reviews said the hotel was “tricky to get to” because we were up and down and around on ancient, steep, slippery cobblestones. At one point I was watching to see which way Matt was going to turn and realized that the road only went one way – and the other way was stairs! Our hotel was amazing – a 600 year old manor house on the hill overlooking the Alhambra. It has a decorative pool in the courtyard and lovely wood detailing everywhere and heavy ornate metal latches. Also the parking garage has an elevator so that was pretty cool.

Alhambra

We hadn’t bought our tickets to Alhambra in advance because we weren’t sure which day were were going to arrive but we also knew that it sold out quickly, so we walked down the hill that our hotel was on (in the Albayzín district) and up the hill that the Alhambra was on where the ticket sellers just told us to come early in the morning. It’s a beautiful walk through the gate and gardens though, so it was pleasant enough. For dinner we made the mistake of asking the hotel for a reco and he sent us to a super tourist place whose patio looked out to the Alhambra. It was very lovely and romantic but the food was predictably mediocre.

Alhambra

12-05-19 (Granada / Calahonda)

The hours that we spent waiting in line disappeared pretty quickly once we got inside the grounds of the Alhambra. It was a fortress and a palace through several generations so there are different areas to visit that are interesting in different ways. We say the beautiful rose gardens and fountains with the ancient water delivery systems (turned over roof tiles joined together to form a trough that takes water all over the hill) and the old dungeons and watchtower and then we had a bit of a wait before we could get into the gorgeous Nazarene palaces.  I sat Matt in the shade and got him a beer and a jamón sandwich, most of which he ended up feeding to the feral cats (who figured out pretty quickly that we were a good mark).

Alhambra

The palaces are incredibly gorgeous. It’s hard to imagine the work that must have gone into the detailing, where every surface in some of the rooms had been covered. In others, beautiful fountains and pools were the focus, or a quiet garden that looked out onto the town. I’ve been in love with this aesthetic most of my lift and to see it in person was almost overwhelming. I could have spent days in there.

Calahonda

We decided not to stay another night in Granada but instead head out to the coast where we expected it to be cooler, so we got packed up and put the bikes in the elevator. It turned out to be one of our less good ideas because we were hot and tired from walking around Alhambra all day but also because the ancient cobblestones had become slick with oil and heat during the day and were at their absolute worst by mid-afternoon. As the parking garage was at the top of a steep hill, this made is something akin to riding a motorcycle down a ski hill – with cars on it. Matt did okay but my boot slipped while I was balancing on a slick part of the street and I dropped my bike. That made me cranky but even worse was that we changed our plans and just ate at a tourist shop facing Alhambra at the bottom of the hill and for the second time in two days we had a bad meal in Spain.

The drive to the coast was not long and it did mercifully get cooler as we got towards the water. Apparently Spain had been in some kind of heat wave (no shit!) that was almost over as well but it seemed like maybe poor timing now that we were finally at the beach. We stopped in the first hotel in the first town (Calahonda), happy to be off the bikes and out of the heat, then went down to the bar on the beach. We just sat there until the restaurant opened (in the same  space as the bar) and thought that we would see a menu but the waiter just brought me more wine and then started bringing us food. There was a lovely salad with smoked salmon followed by a fish casserole (caught right in front of where we were sitting) and some toro (bull) meat. When we were full, we told him and he brought us some fruit and an after-dinner drink. It was so easy and unpretentious and lovely. Also one of the best meals we had the whole trip.

Peniscola

12-05-20 (Calahonda / Benisanó) 

As we started riding up the Costa del Sol, two things happened – the “sol” disappeared in the rain and we arrived at the Spain that is familiar to German, French and British holiday-makers – tri-lingual picture menus and huge billboards advertising patio furniture rentals, etc. We had thought that we would just ride up the coast until we found another cute little town to stay in but the roads have been expertly designed to get traffic in and out of these small towns quickly and so you turn off of the super highway onto a smaller one and then onto the road that leads to your town. To get out or even to get to the next town you do the same in reverse. That sucks for motorcycling and the rain isn’t great either so we just kept going until we got to Valencia – the next town that I knew I for sure wanted to visit.

Except that we didn’t stop in Valencia but kept going on to the suburb of Benisanó. The only thing that I wanted to do in Valencia was eat a proper paella (although there are a couple of nice restaurants in that stretch that I would have liked to eat at, had we been able to get in) and so Matt looked up the primo place to eat paella and it turned out that it’s Levante, out in the suburbs. There’s only one hotel in Benisanó – a classy joint that has put a potted plant in front of the  2 Star plaque out front – and so we stayed in it, in a room that felt like the spare room at an estate museum or something. There was a dresser that looked like it had been got at a garage sale and although I think we and the people next to us were probably the only four people staying in the whole place, they had put us right next to each other and the walls were so thin that we could hear the guy yelling at his wife from the shower. But no matter, we were going to have paella for dinner and then we were going to leave so we just needed to find a couple of hours to fill until then and as we had discovered on this trip, beer does a pretty great job of filling an afternoon.

Luckily the paella place was just a few doors down so I went and checked every so often it kept stubbornly being closed.  Finally we asked the hotel proprietor and he said in his very limited English that he thought it wasn’t open. That seemed pretty obvious so after a while I asked if we could have paella there in the hotel restaurant and he looked surprised but said he thought they might have some left over from lunch. They did and we ate it while sulking a bit. Later we learned that paella is usually cooked outside over fires made with orange wood and that it’s traditionally made by men who were out working in the fields. For this reason, it’s usually a lunch dish rather than eaten for dinner. Try again tomorrow.

12-05-21 (Benisanó / Peníscola / Barcelona)

Checked out and went and parked ourselves at the cafe next door to Levante. I got crankier and crankier as we filled up on snacks from a suburban Spanish bakery and the paella place never opened. Finally we had to leave and now I will have to come back to this shit town again some day and stay in this shit hotel just to eat paella.

As we rode out of town though we passed orange grove after orange grove and the smell was intoxicating. I always tell people that motorcycles are the best way to travel because you are so connected to the land – the terrain, the climate, the smells – and travelling from Barcelona through Madrid and then Andalusia we passed through the countryside experiencing the things that we would eat at the next town; fields of garlic, olive orchards, orange groves, etc.  Some of these things weren’t pleasant (the pig farms in particular) and when we crested a hill outside Valencia and saw a fire filling the sky with black smoke, we prepared to ride fast through it and hold our breaths against the acridness. The opposite thing happened though. It turned out to be a fire in an orange grove and it was the smell of smoky perfume, spicy pot pourri…the smell of our denied paellas cooking on an open fires of orange wood…If it weren’t for the ERT vehicles we may have turned around and rode through it again and again. It didn’t quite make up for not eating paella but that was a pretty amazing experience.

Stopped in Peníscola (another poor Spanish town about to be overrun by sun-seeking tourists) for lunch and had a lovely meal on the beach of cuttlefish, cheese and Albariño before pressing on to Barcelona. So tired and achey now. I actually have bruises on my ass from riding so hard and just desperately wanted to be off the bike but as we were riding through Penedès (cava wine country) I couldn’t help but signal to Matt that I wanted to pull over and buy some. He looked pretty incredulous – we’d been travelling around Spain for weeks with strangely-shaped, un-flexible luggage the size of overnight bags and in every town I had found something that I wanted to buy. Matt would hold it up against his hard case (he had a bigger bike so therefor bigger bags) and tell me I could get the smaller one. About 2/3rds of the way through the trip he threw out some of his underwear to make room for some regional delicacy I couldn’t live without. So in Penedès he told me I could have ONE bottle of wine and that was it, then he went to the bathroom. 

The proprietor showed me around his operation, through the cellar and the storeroom and finally told me about each of the different wines. He was doing it in Catalan though, and so when he said that the bottles were €60, €70 and €90 each and I just about died because it was the most expensive cava I had ever seen in my life, he actually meant €6 – €9. I wish I had a truck.

Matt rented us a super posh hotel on the water in Barcelona so we just cruised up to the door and parked our filthy, bug-encrusted bikes on the sidewalk beside the luxury cars and went inside to drink our wine. Wanted to go to Cal Pep but it was closed so ducked out of the rain around the corner in a super cute tapas place that we hadn’t seen yet called Bastaix. We had fava beans with jamón iberico and mint, piquillo peppers with goat cheese and honey, morcilla sausage on toast with roasted apple and cheese, a plate of manchego, and some nice Albariño. For dessert there was that gorgeous chocolate ganache and EVOO and sea salt dessert and more PX (from Alvarez this time) which  Matt enjoyed. He seems to be a convert.

We had an unexpected couple of days in Barcelona that we thought were were going to spend along the coast but it was raining and we were tired and the  jamón iberico at the hotel was excellent so we laid low and feasted, shopped, planned our next trip – to Northern Spain…

 

Here are all the photos from our trip: http://www.flickr.com/photos/degan/sets/72157629894497730/

 

Spring (break)

Long Beach

Certainly somewhere girls were going wild last week but I spent my spring break being relaxed and restored; surfing, sleeping, diving reading, walking in the woods and on the beach. I had a trip planned to go surfing in Tofino with some girlfriends that got extended into a dive trip to Barkley Sound with some personal time at the Black Rock in Ucluelet in between. Spoiled, right? I know. I often lament that I don’t spend enough time exploring B.C. and in a way that seems laughable because more than anyone I know, I am the one who will hop in a car and head to Cape Scott (just to see what’s there) and who has stopped to fill up my motorcycle at most of the small towns within a day’s riding distance. But where I excel at going, I lack at sitting and soaking. Holidays for me are a time to see all the things there are to see, and then write about them on the train to the next place. This drove me nuts when I was a kid, that we would vacation over and over again in the same place and stay for weeks at a time, but it’s come to be something I appreciate and it feels good to settle in to some of the places that I’ve been visiting for a long time (starting with Seattle) and settling in a bit farther into myself too.

Good friends

Spring means ducks and bunnies and flowers and rain and enough cat hair in my apartment to make an entire second cat but of course it also means new life. The Persian new year celebrates spring and renewal and I just think that makes so much more sense than trying to be resolute and rejuvenated in the middle of winter when everything is dead. I may adopt it. I LOVE spring and inevitably I change my Facebook picture to the one of me playing in the cherry blossoms and post something about the world being mud-luscious and puddle-wonderful and run around all giddy, but I found this quote recently that I just love:

“Spring, spring! Bytuene Mershe ant Averil, when spray biginneth to spring! When shaws be sheene and swards full fayre, and leaves both large and longe! When the hounds of spring are on winter’s traces, in the spring time, the only pretty ring time, when the birds do sing, hey-ding-a-ding ding, cuckoo, jug-jug, pu-wee, ta-witta-woo! And so on and so on and so on. See almost any poet between the Bronze Age and 1805.”
-George Orwell, Keep the Aspidistra Flying

because everyone loves spring!

Sunset

And you could see it on the island. There were many people out on the beach and in the waves, shedding winter. The goats weren’t on the roof in Coombs yet but the dogs were bounding up and down the beaches, full of joy and later in the week I saw grey whales on their migration north, a black bear out of hibernation and a transient mother orca with her calf.

Wild Pacific Trail

Surfing in Tofino felt like summertime, it was so nice out and we had a beautiful cabin with a hot tub and filled it with great people and lots of wine. I didn’t realize that it had been so long since I was surfing last and I was quickly reminded that I’m out of surfing shape but surfing is one of the only activities where you can have fun no matter how good you are. Even just bobbing in the water in the sun, it feels like a great day. But I decided take a lesson a few days later and not only was that very educational but my instructor was great and we had a fantastic time in the surf. We even saw a grey whale breaching.

Birch

Then the weather turned stormy and I sat on my deck at the Black Rock (or in the hot tub) watching waves pound the rocks over and over again. I read my books and wrote. I also tried to work in a hotel room without a desk but just never mind that, the rest of the week was great. I was hoping to be able to dig deep and think about some things on the horizon; my acceptance into grad school and the MDM program and how that would shake out with our move to Seattle and Adience, an art project I’m working on, etc. but all I realized was how burnt out I am. Whenever I tried to think about what I wanted to do, all that came to mind was surfing and diving (because I am almost never too tired for that), making bread and reading and walking dogs. So more resting is on the horizon, as well as a puppy.

Bamfield

For stage 3 of the adventure, I went to pick up Talia from Nanaimo so that we could go diving in Barkley Sound. When I was hiking around the Wild Pacific Trail in Ucluelet, I realized just how close we were to Bamfield (16 nautical miles across the bay) and that just made me laugh* to think about driving all the way across the island and back to almost the same spot but there you have it. The drive was beautiful in any case and although it’s an active logging road with several clearcut areas on it, there are also many stands of silver birch and some rivers and lakes. On our way out we saw some beautiful deer in the trees.

*Now that I’ve seen Revolution about how I’m not laughing anymore. Go and see it please, it’s important.

The cut

Diving in Barkley Sound has been on my radar for a while but there are no operators in the area any more so you have to team up with a trip going from somewhere else. We went with Amanda, a photographer I know, and Ogden Point and stayed in a cabin owned by the operator. The town is divided into east and west, with the west side only accessible by boat and has some interesting amenities – there’s the marine research station which puts on talks and events and a bunch of cat cabins built for the feral cat colony. It was my first time in Bamfield since I hiked the West Coast Trail in university and I had forgotten how beautiful it was. Of course back then I didn’t even get out into the sound, which is where I really fell in love. By the end of the weekend I was noting prices and locations of cabins for sale. It’s a bit far from Seattle but I’m still thinking about it.

Undersea garden

Underwater was even more beautiful. Incredible surge on the first dive so that when we were sometimes moving 6-9″ back and forth through the water, and rounding the rock to swim through the cut where the surf anemones are, we were flung through so quickly that all we saw was the wall of green. I was tempted to go around and do it again but surge in another direction pushed me too far up to the surface (this was a very shallow dive) and I saw a wall of mussels and kelp blocking my way back down again so I waited for Talia and we went over to the another rock for a similar ride. I described it afterwards as like being at the aquarium and Playland at the same time and kept giggling into my regulator I was having so much fun. The rest of the dives were considerably calmer (although far from flat) with still the same amount of colour. Pink and purple urchins up against blue and orange sunstars, bat stars, leather starts, lime green surf anemones, soft purple corals, pink and purple hydrocorals, iridescent blue seaweed, green eelgrass and red-tinged kelp, huge abalone, lurid orange scallops, nudibranchs the size of rabbits and so many more things.

Orcas

For dinner the first night we had a moose roast (my first time eating moose) and then we were back out again in the morning for more of the same underwater splendours. A huge sea lion came and played with us for a while, jumping completely out of the water three times after we had surfaced to see where we were at, and then on our way to the next dive site, we encountered the orcas and spent some time with them before moving on. In every photo of me coming out of the water, I have a big grin on my face. It was just so incredible and I can’t wait to go back. Our captain described the sound as a place where you could dive every day for a year and still not dive the same site twice (see my earlier comment about buying a property there).

Beautiful BC

A friend described it as a perfect B.C. vacation (especially if I could have snuck in a trip to Whistler!) and it was just so wonderful to spend that much time out on the water surrounded by amazing beauty with some great people. I’m very grateful.

Here are all of the photos:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/degan/sets/72157633215145771/